T-shirt GSM measures jersey weight: 150–180 GSM is a light retail tee, 200–220 GSM is standard, 240 GSM is the streetwear sweet spot, 280–300 GSM is heavyweight and 350–400 GSM is ultra-heavy. For most streetwear brands 240 GSM is the best all-round weight and 300 GSM is the choice for a heavyweight or boxy tee.
Tees are sold on weight more than any other product, and the language is confused: “heavyweight” blanks are often 240 GSM, “premium” can mean anything, and oz and GSM are mixed. This guide gives the weights in both units, what each feels like, which fits and markets each suits, how weight affects printing and cost, and what else to specify.
What does each t-shirt GSM feel like?
| GSM | oz / yd² | Feel | Typical use | Price index (240 = 100) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 150–180 | 4.5–5.3 | Thin, soft, slightly sheer in light colours | Promo, fast fashion, hot climates | 80 |
| 200–220 | 5.9–6.5 | Standard retail weight | Everyday basics, merch | 90 |
| 240 | 7 | Substantial, opaque, clean drape | Streetwear oversized and boxy tees | 100 |
| 260–280 | 7.7–8.3 | Firm, structured, holds a square shape | Heavyweight streetwear, vintage-style | 110 |
| 300 | 8.9 | Thick, crisp when new, breaks in | Heavyweight hero tees, Northeast markets | 118 |
| 350–400 | 10.3–11.8 | Sweatshirt-adjacent | Ultra-heavy statement tees | 135–150 |
What GSM should a streetwear tee be?
240 GSM for an oversized or drop-shoulder tee sold year-round; it hangs straight without stiffness and prints cleanly. 280–300 GSM for a heavyweight tee or a boxy fit that needs to hold a square silhouette. 200–220 GSM for Miami, Houston and Las Vegas summer lines, or for layering. Vintage wash and garment dye programmes often use 220–260 GSM because the wash softens and shrinks the fabric slightly.
How does GSM affect printing and washing?
Heavier jersey has a flatter, denser surface, so screen prints sit cleaner and DTG needs less pretreatment. It also absorbs more dye in garment-dye processes, giving deeper colour. Acid wash on heavy jersey produces stronger contrast because there is more surface to bleach. On light jersey, large plastisol prints can feel heavier than the shirt; water-based inks suit 180–220 GSM better. The methods are compared in screen printing vs DTG vs embroidery.
What else determines a tee’s quality?
- Yarn: combed ringspun cotton is smoother and stronger than carded open-end at the same weight; 30/1 for standard, 20/1 for heavyweight, 16/1 and 12/1 for ultra-heavy.
- Knit: single jersey is standard; interlock is double-knit, smoother and does not curl; slub adds texture.
- Finishing: compacting and pre-shrinking keep shrinkage to 3–5%; enzyme wash softens; silicone adds slickness.
- Collar rib: 1×1 for a flatter neck, 2×2 for a heavier, doubled collar that never rolls; both should scale with the body weight.
- Construction: tubular removes side seams; side-seam allows wider oversized blocks; taped shoulders stop stretch.
How does GSM affect the price of a tee?
Each 50 GSM adds about $0.60–$0.90 per tee in combed cotton, so a 300 GSM heavyweight tee costs roughly 18% more than a 240 GSM tee at the same construction. Full bands are in how much a t-shirt costs to manufacture, and every style is on the t-shirt manufacturer page. Swatches of each weight ship with your sample so you can compare them before bulk.
Frequently asked questions
Is 240 GSM heavy for a t-shirt?
It is the upper end of standard and the streetwear sweet spot: heavier than a 180 GSM retail tee, lighter than a 300 GSM heavyweight. It drapes without clinging.
Is 300 GSM too heavy for a tee?
Not for streetwear; it is the heavyweight standard. It is too heavy for hot climates in summer and for layering.
What GSM is a Shaka Wear or Los Angeles Apparel heavy tee?
Those popular heavyweight blanks are around 240–260 GSM (7–7.5 oz). True 300 GSM tees are heavier than most wholesale ‘heavyweight’ blanks.
What is the difference between GSM and oz?
Oz per square yard is the US measure; 1 oz/yd² is about 34 GSM. A 7 oz tee is roughly 240 GSM; 8.5 oz is 290 GSM.
Last updated September 5, 2026 · Mike Apparel, Sialkot. Pricing and lead times reflect current factory capacity; confirm on your quote.