Hoodie GSM (grams per square metre) measures fabric weight: 280 GSM is a light retail hoodie, 350 GSM is the mainstream streetwear standard, 400 GSM is premium heavyweight, and 450–550 GSM is ultra-heavy. Higher GSM means thicker, warmer fleece with more structure and drape, and a higher price, but not automatically better quality.
GSM is the number brands put on product pages and argue about in comments. It matters because it changes how a hoodie hangs, feels, costs and sells, but it is only one of four variables in a fleece. This guide explains what each weight is like in the hand and on the body, what it costs, which fits and markets it suits, and what else to specify so that “400 GSM” means what you think it means.
What does each hoodie GSM feel like?
| GSM | Feel | Typical use | Price index (350 = 100) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 260–280 | Light, soft, drapes close to the body | Retail basics, gym, layering, hot climates | 85 |
| 300–320 | Medium; the standard wholesale blank | Merch, promotional, budget lines | 90 |
| 350 | Substantial, soft, holds shape | Mainstream US streetwear, everyday premium | 100 |
| 400 | Heavy, structured, stands away from the body | Premium streetwear, oversized and boxy fits | 115 |
| 450 | Very heavy, dense, warm | Luxury streetwear, cold-climate markets | 128 |
| 500–550 | Coat-like, stiff when new, breaks in | Statement heavyweight drops | 140–150 |
What GSM should a streetwear hoodie be?
350 GSM if you sell across the US year-round at a $70–$90 price point. 400–450 GSM if the hoodie is a hero product at $95 and up, if the fit is oversized or boxy (heavy fleece holds those silhouettes), or if your market is New York, Chicago or the Northeast. 300–340 GSM French terry if your market is Los Angeles, Miami, Houston or Atlanta and the hoodie sells in summer. See French terry vs fleece for that decision, and our heavyweight hoodie and oversized hoodie pages for what each block needs.
What else determines how a hoodie feels besides GSM?
- Fibre blend: 100% cotton is heavier per volume, dyes deeper, shrinks more and feels more premium; 80/20 cotton-poly is softer, pills less, shrinks less and is cheaper.
- Yarn count and construction: three-end fleece with combed yarn is denser and smoother than two-end open-end fleece at the same GSM.
- Brushing: deep brushing raises a thick nap and makes 350 GSM feel like 400; light brushing or unbrushed terry feels cooler and firmer.
- Compacting and pre-shrinking: stabilise the fabric so the hoodie does not shrink 8% and go stiff after one wash.
- Rib: a 400 GSM body with thin rib feels cheap; rib weight and spandex content should scale with the fleece.
How does GSM affect cost?
Fabric is 50–60% of a hoodie’s cost and fleece is bought by weight, so each 50 GSM adds roughly $1.20–$1.60 per hoodie in 100% cotton. A 450 GSM hoodie costs about 28% more than a 350 GSM one at the same construction. Full numbers in how much a hoodie costs to manufacture.
How do you verify GSM?
Ask for the fabric spec sheet and cut a swatch: a 10 x 10 cm square of 400 GSM fleece weighs 4 grams. We include swatches with every sample and state the finished GSM after compacting, which is 3–5% higher than the greige fabric, so you can check it yourself. Brands that have been sold “400 GSM” hoodies that weigh 330 know why this matters. All of this is specified on the hoodie manufacturer page and confirmed at the sample stage.
Frequently asked questions
Is 400 GSM hoodie heavy?
Yes. 400 GSM is the premium heavyweight range for streetwear; it feels substantial on the hanger and holds an oversized silhouette. 450–550 GSM is ultra-heavy.
Is 280 GSM good for a hoodie?
It is a retail-basic weight: light, soft, inexpensive. Fine for a layering hoodie or warm climates, but it does not read as premium streetwear.
What GSM are luxury hoodies?
Most premium and luxury streetwear hoodies are 400–500 GSM in 100% cotton fleece.
Does higher GSM mean better quality?
It means heavier, not better. Yarn quality, brushing, compacting and construction decide quality; GSM decides weight and drape. A well-made 350 GSM beats a badly made 450 GSM.
Last updated September 5, 2026 · Mike Apparel, Sialkot. Pricing and lead times reflect current factory capacity; confirm on your quote.