French terry and fleece are the same knitted fabric finished differently: French terry has visible loops on the inside and is cooler and cleaner-draping; fleece has those loops brushed into a soft nap and is warmer and softer. Use fleece for hoodies and sets sold in cold markets or as cosy premium pieces, and French terry for warm-climate markets and year-round lines.
Brands ask which is better; the useful question is which is right for the product and the market. Both are knitted the same way and come in the same weights, so the choice is about hand feel, warmth, drape, pilling and where the customer lives. This guide covers the differences, the weights, the trade-offs and a market-by-market recommendation.
What is the difference between French terry and fleece?
| French terry | Brushed fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Loops (loopback) | Brushed nap |
| Outside surface | Smooth jersey | Smooth jersey |
| Warmth | Moderate | High |
| Hand feel | Cool, slightly textured | Soft, plush |
| Drape | Cleaner, holds shape | Softer, cosier |
| Pilling | Low | Moderate on cotton, low on anti-pill blends |
| Common weights | 300–420 GSM | 300–550 GSM |
| Best markets | LA, Miami, Houston, Atlanta, Las Vegas | New York, Chicago, Northeast, Midwest, UK |
| Cost at same GSM | Similar; terry slightly cheaper (no brushing) | Similar |
How do they feel at the same weight?
A 380 GSM French terry hoodie feels lighter than a 380 GSM fleece hoodie because it does not trap air, even though they weigh the same. Terry feels firmer and drapes closer to the body; fleece feels thicker and stands away. On an oversized block, fleece gives the fuller silhouette; terry gives a sharper one. Both hold up in heavy weights; see the French terry hoodie and heavyweight fleece hoodie pages.
Which should you use for hoodies?
Fleece is the default for a hoodie sold nationally: it is what customers expect a hoodie to feel like, and 350–450 GSM brushed fleece is the streetwear standard. French terry is the right choice when the hoodie sells in summer, when the brand aesthetic is clean and minimal, or when you want a year-round piece for the Sunbelt. Many brands run both: fleece for fall and winter drops, terry for spring and summer. Weights are covered in the hoodie GSM guide.
Which should you use for sweatsuits?
The same logic, with one addition: sets are worn in more situations than hoodies, including travel and lounging, where terry’s breathability helps. For the US South and West, French terry sets at 340–400 GSM are the best sellers; for the Northeast and Midwest, fleece. Never mix the two in one set; they dye slightly differently. See French terry sweatsuits and fleece sweatsuits.
How do washes and decoration differ?
Both take screen print and embroidery on the smooth face identically. Garment dye and acid wash work on both; on terry the loops take dye a shade darker than the face, giving a subtle two-tone inside. Enzyme washing on terry peaches the face slightly, which some brands prefer to brushing. Fleece pills more with wear on 100% cotton; anti-pill finishing on blends and deeper brushing on cotton reduce it.
What about cotton vs cotton-poly in each?
Both fabrics come in 100% cotton and 80/20 cotton-poly. Cotton is heavier per volume, dyes deeper, shrinks more and feels more premium; the blend is softer, pills less, shrinks less and costs less. The combination that most premium streetwear brands land on is 100% cotton fleece at 400–450 GSM for heavyweight drops and 80/20 fleece or 100% cotton terry at 340–380 GSM for core lines. Every option is on the hoodie manufacturer page, and swatches of each ship with your sample.
Frequently asked questions
Is French terry warmer than fleece?
No. At the same GSM fleece is warmer because the brushed nap traps air. Terry is cooler and better for warm markets.
Which is more premium, French terry or fleece?
Neither; both are used by luxury brands. Heavy French terry reads as clean and modern; heavy brushed fleece reads as cosy and substantial.
Does French terry shrink?
100% cotton terry shrinks 3–5% if not pre-shrunk, the same as fleece. We compact both before cutting.
Can I get a French terry hoodie in 400 GSM?
Yes. Our heavy French terry runs to 420 GSM, which gives structure without the warmth of brushed fleece.
Last updated September 6, 2026 · Mike Apparel, Sialkot. Lead times reflect current factory capacity; confirm on your quote.