US streetwear sizing runs larger and looser than standard retail sizing: an oversized size M measures about 68–72 cm across the chest and a boxy M about 62–66 cm, against 52–56 cm for a regular retail M. Brands should grade a dedicated block per silhouette so customers buy their normal size, and order a first run weighted toward M and L.
Sizing is where offshore manufacturing most often disappoints US brands: a factory grades to its domestic standard and the whole run comes out a size small, or an oversized pattern is just a regular pattern in XL. This guide gives the base measurements we grade from for each streetwear silhouette, the grade increments, how fits differ, how to specify sizing to a factory and how to plan a size run.
What are the base measurements for each silhouette?
| Size M, flat measurements (cm) | Regular | Oversized | Boxy | Longline |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest width | 54 – 56 | 68 – 72 | 62 – 66 | 62 – 66 |
| Body length (HPS to hem) | 70 – 72 | 72 – 76 | 62 – 66 | 78 – 82 |
| Shoulder drop | 0 – 2 | 6 – 10 | 5 – 7 | 4 – 8 |
| Shoulder to shoulder (seam) | 47 – 49 | 58 – 64 | 56 – 60 | 54 – 58 |
| Sleeve length (from seam) | 62 – 64 | 52 – 56 | 54 – 58 | 56 – 60 |
| Hem width | 52 – 54 | 62 – 66 | 58 – 62 | 58 – 62 |
Hoodies and crewnecks in fleece run 1–2 cm larger than tees at the same size to allow for fabric thickness. Sweatpants at size M: waist 36–40 cm relaxed, hip 56–60 cm, inseam 76 cm (30 in), leg opening 16 cm (tapered) to 34 cm (wide). Fitted hats follow US head sizes from 6 7/8 to 8.
How do sizes grade up and down?
Chest grows about 5 cm per size on regular blocks and 6 cm on oversized; body length 1.5–2 cm per size; sleeve 1.5 cm; shoulder 1.5–2 cm. Shoulder drop stays constant so the silhouette does not change across the run. Extended sizes (2XL to 4XL) grow 6–7 cm in chest per size. Grading is applied by the pattern room from your sample size, which is why the sample stage matters: approve the M and the grade follows.
How do fits differ and what should you specify?
- Regular: standard retail; specify only if your brand is not streetwear-adjacent.
- Oversized: bigger everywhere, dropped shoulder. Specify the drop (6–10 cm) and whether the body is longer or shorter than regular. See how to make an oversized hoodie.
- Boxy: wide and short, near-square. Specify the chest-to-length ratio (1.0–1.1).
- Cropped: hem at or above natural waist. Specify the hem position from HPS.
- Longline: hem below the hip, often with slits. Specify the length and slit height.
- Women’s blocks: narrower shoulder, shorter body, different grade; specify if the line is not unisex.
How should you specify sizing to a factory?
Send either a reference garment (the factory measures it and grades from it) or a spec sheet with points of measure and tolerances for your sample size. Say which size is the sample size, which sizes are in the run, and whether grading is US, EU or custom. Ask the factory to state finished, post-wash measurements. Tolerances of ±1.5 cm on body and ±0.5 cm on rib are standard. What goes in the document is in the tech pack guide.
How do you plan a size run?
For US unisex streetwear, a first run of 50 pieces usually splits S 8, M 15, L 15, XL 9, 2XL 3. Women’s lines shift toward S and M. Extended sizes sell in the Midwest and South more than the coasts. After the first sell-through, reorder by what sold; reorders have no minimum per size. Our sizing is applied on every block for US brands, and every product page under custom clothing manufacturing lists the fits available.
Frequently asked questions
What size run should a streetwear brand order?
For US unisex streetwear a typical split is S 15%, M 30%, L 30%, XL 18%, 2XL 7%. Adjust after the first sell-through.
Do you grade to US or EU sizing?
US by default; EU, UK and Asian grading on request. Size labels can show dual sizing.
What is a boxy fit measurement?
At size M: about 62–66 cm chest, 62–66 cm body length, 5–7 cm shoulder drop. The chest and length are near equal, which is what makes it read as square.
Can you make extended sizes?
Yes, to 4XL and 5XL on most blocks, with fabric surcharges of 10–20% for the larger sizes.
Last updated September 5, 2026 · Mike Apparel, Sialkot. Pricing and lead times reflect current factory capacity; confirm on your quote.