Acid wash is a garment finishing process that creates a marbled, high-contrast faded effect by tumbling finished cotton garments with an oxidising agent (potassium permanganate) or bleach, then neutralising, softening and drying them. It is done on the sewn garment, not the fabric, which is why acid wash hoodies and tees have to be manufactured rather than bought as blanks.
Acid wash went from 1980s denim to one of the most in-demand streetwear finishes of the last few years, and it commands a premium at retail because it cannot be replicated from a catalogue. This guide explains how the process works, what fabrics and colours suit it, and how it interacts with printing and hardware. We run it in-house on acid wash hoodies and acid wash tees.
How is acid wash done?
- Sew the garmentIn 100% cotton, with wash-safe hardware and reinforced seams. Rib, hood and body are all in the same dyed fabric so the effect covers the whole piece.
- Dampen and loadGarments are dampened and loaded loosely into a drum washer, sometimes with pumice stones soaked in the chemical for a stone-acid effect.
- OxidisePotassium permanganate solution is applied by spray or in the drum. Where it touches the dye it strips colour; where the garment is folded it does not, creating the marble.
- NeutraliseA reducing bath (sodium metabisulphite) stops the reaction and removes the brown manganese residue.
- Soften and dryEnzyme and silicone softeners restore the hand; tumble drying sets the effect and the shrinkage.
- DecoratePrint or embroider after washing for crisp graphics, or before for a distressed print.
Which fabrics and colours work best?
100% cotton fleece at 400 GSM or heavier and 100% cotton jersey at 260 GSM or heavier, reactive or pigment dyed. Black gives the classic grey-on-black marble; navy, charcoal, brown, forest and burgundy give strong contrast; pastels give a soft mineral effect. Polyester blends do not bleach evenly and are avoided. Weights matter because the process weakens cotton slightly; see the hoodie GSM guide.
What is the difference between acid wash, vintage wash, stone wash and mineral wash?
| Wash | Effect | Process | Relative cost add |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acid wash | High-contrast marble | Permanganate or bleach on tumbled garment | Highest of the group |
| Vintage / pigment wash | Even all-over fade, soft hand | Pigment dye then enzyme wash | Moderate |
| Stone wash | Worn, abraded surface, mild fade | Tumbled with pumice | Moderate |
| Mineral wash | Subtle, cloudy tonal variation | Light permanganate spray | Moderate |
| Sun fade / spray bleach | Fade on shoulders and seams only | Hand-applied bleach | Lower, hand-applied |
| Enzyme wash | Softer hand, no visible fade | Cellulase enzyme bath | Smallest add of the group |
How does acid wash affect prints, embroidery and hardware?
Print after the wash for a clean graphic on a marbled body; print before for a cracked, distressed graphic (plastisol survives, water-based inks fade with the fabric). Embroider after, or the thread will discolour. Bare metal eyelets and zips can mark the fabric during the wash, so we use plastic eyelets and polyester drawcords on washed styles, or fit metal hardware after washing. Woven labels are sewn in before the wash and take a light fade, which most brands like; a bright label can be added after.
What does acid wash add to the cost, and what is the minimum?
It’s the most expensive wash we offer, on top of whatever the plain garment costs, at a 50-piece minimum per design and colour. Each batch is washed as one lot for tone consistency, which is also why the minimum isn’t lower. See what drives hoodie cost and t-shirt cost for the full picture. Sampling shows you the intensity before bulk; we photograph the range within the batch for your product page. Everything else in the wash house is on the custom clothing manufacturing page.
Frequently asked questions
Does acid wash actually use acid?
No. The name is historical. The process uses potassium permanganate (an oxidiser) or chlorine bleach on dampened, tumbled garments, followed by neutralising and softening.
Is every acid wash garment different?
Yes. The pattern depends on how the garment folds in the drum, so no two are identical. Intensity is controlled so the batch reads as one colourway.
Can polyester blends be acid washed?
Poorly. Polyester does not bleach, so blends give a weak, uneven effect. We use 100% cotton for acid wash.
Does acid wash damage the garment?
It weakens cotton slightly, which is why heavy fabrics, reinforced seams and wash-safe hardware are used. Finished pieces are tested for seam strength.
Last updated September 6, 2026 · Mike Apparel, Sialkot. Lead times reflect current factory capacity; confirm on your quote.